By Tim A. Rutherford

Miss T.J. was caught in cross-town traffic the evening of our dinner. I took the chance to sip a glass of wine and study the dinner menu. Since launching dinner just a few months ago, both chefs have worked diligently to iron out kinks in the menu. I was in for dinner earlier and could already see their efforts had made some positive changes.
Waiting, or dining, is comfortable. Tastefully designed menus, simple but elegant table settings and pleasing peach and green colors all combine to whisk you away from the hustle and bustle of busy Skidaway Road – which is just feet away from the large front picture windows. Twinkling lights help camouflage the street scene of car headlights and neighboring fast food neon.
I had my order decided when Miss T.J. arrived and she wasted no time in identifying her favorites on the menu.
She started with the Asparagus Salad. Obviously, crispy bit of asparagus are the star attraction, but tomato salsa, baby greens and a drizzle of balsamic syrup bring the sald together. Combine those tasty elements with crispy and creamy bits of fried goat cheese and the result is a pleasing combination of fresh flavors and textures.
I chose a more substantial appetizer, the Crispy Smoked Duck Spring Roll. The duck was indeed good and smoky – and very tender. Add fresh and crisp ingredients ranging from Granny Smith apple slaw and Asian noodles and the restaurant’s name, “New South,” makes sense. The appetizer is a perfect interpretation of new cuisine conjured from classic Southern and locally ethnic inspirations.
I stayed true to the theme and selected Roasted Barbecue Pork Loin for my main course. Two generous portions of tender pork loin were draped with a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. Gratin potatoes added creaminess to the dish; crispy fried apple wedges and a topping of crisp, fried pickle slices brought crunch and a taste of sweet and sour to the dish.
This is a good place to note that lots of items on New South’s menu are fried. That’s not a bad thing, but ask for options if you’re trying to steer clear of fried foods.
Miss. T.J. went straight for the Baked Tilapia – served with the chefs wonderful crab cakes no less. The fish was moist and extremely flavorful; the crab cakes are a masterful blend of large lump crab pieces and a minimum of binder. Delicate flowers of sweet potato and a wonderfully nutty tasting wilted arrugala salad with citrus vinaigrette accompanied the fish.
Both entrees offered satisfying portions for the money – the tilapia was $24, the pork loin $23.
After scanning the dessert menu, Miss T.J. went straight for the Chocolate Lava Cake. Of course, the chefs have given this dessert standard their own twist – by adding a chocolate cinnamon sauce and a sprinkling of stewed cherries. Miss T.J. decreed the dish a winner – and I agree!
I sampled the curiosity of the menu – Cuban Funnel Cakes. These ridged tubes of fried, chocolaty batter were both crisp and slightly chewy. Dredged through a chocolate dipping sauce – and joined by a ball of vanilla ice cream rolled in toasted walnut – this dessert rose to my expectations.
Chefs Matt and Scott have been wowing me with dessert since they opened for lunch. Lunch desserts include a large wedge of deep-fried cheesecake and a piece of pecan pie that arrives looking like a hockey puck – and tasting like a winner.
The timing seems right for this little 30-plus-seat caf