This review originally appeared in the February 2008 issue of the Savannah Morning News. The restaurant continues to earn high marks on subsequent visits — and a reservation is a must on busy weekends. — PL

By Pete Lamb

The newest ethnic restaurant on the Southside had been described to me as “that new Greek place.” But don’t fall for that: Troy Mediterranean Cuisine is exactly what its name implies – with a real emphasis on Turkish-style preparation.

Begin with the Mixed Meze (a Turkish or Albanian reference to small portions) that was plenty to share. At a very reasonable $11, the plate contains a selection of hummus, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, baba ganoush and tabouli. Served with pita bread and garnishes of tomato and baby lettuces, this dish could have been a meal.

The fried balls of falafel were spicy and satisfying, but Ms. Lamb and I both savored the baba ganoush. The eggplant was mashed to a creamy texture and the blend of spices and other flavoring added just the right touch.

The grape leaves were stuffed with a vegetable mixture and served cold, as tradition would dictate. There was a hint of tartness in the seasoning.

During this course, we became acquainted with our waiter, Bilal, who shared a story about making baba ganoush with America’s oversized eggplants – after growing up in Turkey with much, much smaller varieties.

We tried not to fill up on fresh baked bread (a different bread each day, according to Bilal), which is provided with a seasoned tomato-based dipping sauce.

Ms. Lamb’s Grilled Pork Chop ($17) turned out to be two very large cuts of pork. They were still lightly sizzling on arrival and made a stunning presentation atop a large cannelloni stuffed with a cheese and vegetable mixture, saut