The California central coast appellation of Paso Robles is producing Rhone style wines that have earned the attention of both wine media and consumers.

But venture south, meandering along US 101 through the valleys and steep hillsides; through San Luis Obipso and Santa Maria and you’ll ultimately find the Santa Rita Hills appellation (officially Sta Rita Hills in deference to the powerful south American producer Santa Rita) that spreads east from Lompoc.

Here, moisture laden winds blow in from the coast, creating some the the state’s coolest weather. It is the home of luscious Chardonnays bright with limestone and rich Pinot Noir tinged with spice.

Foley and Brewer-Clifton are recognizable winery names. As is Melville Vineyards – the subject this week’s column.

Ron Melville’s passion for Burgundian wines brought him to Lompoc. In 1996, he developed 82 acres of vineyards in Lompoc where he planted 14 different clones of Pinot Noir and 4 different clones of Chardonnay. Ron also included plantings of Rhone varietals, Syrah and Viognier. A successful career in finance and lifelong love of gardening – and wine collecting – laid the foundation for Melville Winery.

His sons, Chad and Brent, also pursued careers in finance and, like their father, refined their palates and enhanced their knowledge with oenology and viticulture classes at the University of California – Davis. Ultimately, the younger Melvilles left their stock market jobs and joined the family business. Today, Brent manages the Cat Canyon vineyards near Los Alamos; Chad is vineyard manager of the Santa Rita Hills vineyard – where you’ll also find the stunning, Mediterranean-inspired villa that houses winery operations.

Chad was in Savannah a couple of weeks ago for a dinner at Elizabeth on 37th that showcased his family’s wines.

Melville also relies on the knowledge and reputation of one of their neighbors, Greg Brewer, who produces under his own label with Brewer-Clifton Wines and is Melville’s wine maker. With an impressive list of accolades and shared philosophy with the Melvilles, the team’s pooled talents result in significantly noteworthy wines.

And what is that philosophy?

“The wine is made in the vineyard,” Chad told me. “We feel that if we treat the grapes right in the vineyard, that there’s no need to manipulate the juice once it’s in the barrel.”

The resulting wines are a testament to the winery’s mantra – and the skill with which the vineyard is managed within the microclimate of cool temperatures, prominent coastal winds and foggy mornings – conditions known to favor Burgundian grape varietals like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Northern Rhone Syrah. Calcerous rock and sand helps produce grapes with natural acidity and flavor balance. This microclimate distinguishes Santa Rita Hills as a premium region for cool climate fruit from the rest of Santa Ynez Valley.

The legacy that Ron Melville has created is an example of the evolving California wine culture, where I see more and more vineyards turning to terroir-driven production – as opposed to the mass-market manipulation that had seemed so prevalent.

Until next week, cheers!

Wines of the week

Melville 2006 Estate Chardonnay: This Santa Rita Hills vineyard Chard presents an array of fresh citrus flavors that tease with green apple and apricot. Some exposure to new oak raises tannin levels gently but contribute to a well-rounded and satisfying wine. It is crisp, bright and offers an oh-so-gentle lingering finish.

Melville 2006 Pinot Noir – Carrie’s: Chad says this is what his father calls the “blond, blue-eye beauty” of the winery’s Pinots. There’s plenty of fruit forward in this big wine, which begins with distinct red plum and morphs into a range of black fruits. The aroma is varied, and spans a range from fruit, to herbaceous scents to purple beets. Deliciously complex for a Pinot!

In Savannah, you’ll find Melville wines at Savannah Sommelier and Johnnie Ganem Package Shop – as well as in the cellars of Elizabeth on 37th.