I had not visited bustling little Sandfly BBQ since Chef Keith Latture took over pit master duties from his father. Latture, founding chef of Local 11 Ten, brings formidable skills to bear – but still understands that tradition rules when the subject is barbecue.
I had taken exception to the inconsistency of the ribs on my first visit. On my recent late lunch, I found those issues resolved and the results admirable.
The ribs were sweetly smoky, with a pronounced “smoke ring” showing in a cut away section and the dry rub spiced just enough to get my attention. The ribs were perfectly cooked, easy to bite through but not falling off the bone; falling off the bone is overcooked.
To get a representation, I tried the Hog Wild Platter ($14.99 with two ribs, smoked sausage, beef brisket, pulled pork and two sides) that includes a sample of every meat except chicken. You know by now that the ribs were world class. Sadly, I couldn’t say the same for the pulled pork or brisket.
And the issue is not one of flavor, preparation or style. My portions of both these smoked meats were not hot enough. In the case of the pulled pork, the usually flavorful fat was beginning to congeal.
Two weeks ago, I ordered carryout pulled pork, took it home and refrigerated it for later. So, honestly, I can’t say if this is a consistent issue. My carryout was reheated for dinner – and in that case, I found the meat flavorful, tender and delicious.
Ample slices of beef brisket were also very tasty – but too cool for the serving. My smoked sausage was spicy and juicy. Looking back, I should have wrapped it in my buttery piece of Texas toast for a satisfying little sandwich.
One of my companions, Marge, had the Pulled Pork Plate ($8.95 with two sides) and without any prompting, had the same observation about the temperature as I had – and voiced it long before I did .
Ms. Lamb’s Smoked Half Chicken ($9.25) was also not as hot as it should have been – and the reduced temp made the flavorful, dry-rubbed skin rubbery and unappetizing. The meat underneath was moist and nicely smoked.
We shared a cup of Brunswick Stew ($2.99) that ranks among the best I’ve had in this part of the world. It was hot, rich and well-flavored. Ingredients were recognizable in more of a soup base than a thick stew foundation.
All of the side dishes are made in house. We sampled the mac and cheese, BBQ baked beans, potato salad, French fries and sweet potato fries. Each portion was at proper temperature and all were satisfying and delicious. The potato salad,with a healthy dose of mustard, was as close to my mother’s recipe as I’ve ever had outside of the Lamb matriarch’s kitchen.
Three sauces celebrate regional differences: a sweet red sauce, a tangy red sauce and a spicy mustard sauce should meet every diner’s taste. Counter service is fast and cheerful and the decor is really taking on a “BBQ joint” feel with pig memorabilia and historic signs, license plates and Sandfly mementos.
Sandwiches are also available, as is bulk carryout of meats, side and sauces.
My criticism is not as much an indictment as it is a suggestion to resolve the heat issue. Had we been dining “recreationally,” I would have simply asked for the plate to be reheated. Latture has clearly stepped up to the plate in terms of recipes and skill with his big Southern Pride smoker.

Reviewers do not notify restaurants in advance of their visits. The Savannah Morning News pays for all meals.

Three Stars
Pete Lamb’s scoring of one to four stars indicates his impression of food, service, ambiance and value.
What: Sandfly BBQ
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday
Address: 8413 Ferguson Ave.
Telephone: 356-5463
Reservations: No
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: No
Dinner for two without alcohol: $20-$30