Delicate, fluted glassware filled with gentle bubbles of Champagne has become the iconic image of celebrations ranging from weddings and birthdays to anniversaries and job promotions – and even elections. Bubbly has even found it way to the brunch table, thanks to the Mimosa.
Champagne, technically, hails from the Champagne region of France. In a land known for remarkable terroir, even the marginal soil of this region is coerced to produce some of the world’s most famed and expensive Champagnes.
In the European Union, only bottles from the region may carry the name Champagne, but outside the EU winemakers use the term, which often confuses consumers.
One such producer has roots deep in the French Champagne tradition, but makes a family of sparklers that adhere to the strict guidelines of a true Methode Champenoise from a mountainside in New Mexico.
In 1984, Gilbert Gruet, whose Champagne house, Gruet et Fils had produced fine Champagne in Bethon, France, since 1952, made the decision to plant an experimental vineyard of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay near Truth or Consequences, N.M. His children, winemaker Laurent and daughter Nathalie, and family friend Farid Himeur relocated to America and began their wine making adventure.
At 4,300 ft. the vineyards are some of the highest in the United States. Despite hot days, the temperature at night can drop as much as 30 degrees, cooling the fruit and slowing down the maturation process on an otherwise short growing season. Sandy and loamy soil, and a lack of humidity that might contribute to rot, yield consistency of fruit.
The excellent 1987 harvest allowed Laurent to produce his first two wines following the strict guidelines of a true Methode Champenoise. His Gruet Brut N.V., and his Gruet Brut Blanc de Noirs N.V. production totaled 5,000 bottles. All manual machinery had been shipped from France and the wine was produced in a small rented facility in Albuquerque.
In 1989, after the required minimum of two years aging on tirage – the period of secondary fermentation that occurs in bottle – the first two sparkling wines were introduced.
Today, Gruet produces a dozen non-vintage sparkling wines that represent single varietals and blends that include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Production exceeds 80,000 cases with distribution in 47 states. The winery also produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay still wines that present in classic Burgundian style.
I recently sampled two of Gruet’s sparkling line – Methode Champenoise Brut NV and Methode Champenoise Demi-sec NV – and was immediately impressed by the character of each. I’m often too overwhelmed by the effervescence to really pull out the depth – not the case with these two.
The Brut is a crisp, full-bodied sparkling wine with rich complexity and apple and citrus flavor. The nose is dominated green apple and grapefruit flavors.
The subtle, fruity aromas and the freshness of Demi-Sec powers the character of this light bodied, semi-dry sparkling wine. The palate possesses a creamy sensation and flavors of green apples, ripe pears, pineapple and a hint of mineral. It is light and elegant with good acidity and exotic fruit flavors.
The Gruet line is poured at many local restaurants and is available from most retailers for around $16.99.