Alessia Antinori, the youngest of a trio of sisters, is charming and witty. With more than 600 years of winemaking history in her family tree, that’s all she really needs to be; the wines that range from assorted Italian estates and California speak for themselves.
But don’t be misled by her cosmopolitan elegance. She has a degree in viticulture and oenology and has worked as a winemaker for the company. She has been the driving force behind their sparkling wine brand, Montenisa in Francicorta.
I had the chance to visit with Allesia last week over dinner at Atlanta’s Antica Posta restaurant. United Distributors and American importer Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates arranged her visit. Restaurateur Marco Botti assembled a stunning menu of four courses that paid homage to a quartet of Antinori wines.
The family story and the continuation of the business was subject of a “60 Minutes” report a few weeks ago. In fact, Allesia’s father, Marchese Piero Antinori, had begun to divest some family property – until his three daughters began expressing interest in the legacy created by 26 generations of Antinori winemakers.
The family’s Italian portfolio is a jigsaw puzzle of labels and estates. Wines range from entry level Italian reds like the 2006 Santa Cristina I picked up at Johnnie Ganem’s Package Shop. It’s an intense Tuscan Sangiovese that’s so typical of that genre. Priced in the low teens, it’s perfect for meat dishes and, of course, hearty pasta recipes.
At the Atlanta dinner, two wines stood out for me. One, Tignanello, is a blend of 85 percent Sangiovese, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 percent Cabernet Franc. Predictable aroma of blackberry was rich and intense, but not nearly as intense as the lingering flavors of chocolate, black fruit and coffee. The wine is a wonderfully balanced example of proper aging to achieve good tannin structures.
The wine that really captured my attention was a 2007 Chardonnay from Antinori’s Napa Valley vineyard, Antica.
This stunning property has been in the family since the 1960s and for many years was leased to another winemaker. Enough acreage in Chardonnay grape was present to make this wine. That lease expires this month – meaning Antica adds more than 500 acres of vineyards to it nearly 1,200 acre estate. I’m anxious to revisit this project a few years down the road!
How unique is this Chardonnay? It was harvested from a single vineyard of a mere 10 acres. Eight months in French oak produced a big, woody Chard that fits my personal tastes perfectly. It is creamy in texture and taste – with nice presence of apple, pear and vanilla. I loved the acidity, which produces bright flavors and a clean, slightly lingering finish.
This is not Chardonnay for the faint of heart – but for someone who truly appreciates big oak and gutsy fruit.
The ‘06 vintage ranged from $26-$40 – watch for the 2007 as it’s just coming to market.