By Tim A. Rutherford

After a long, hot day on being “on” for the people around us, the thing Miss T.J. and I wanted most was a quiet, relaxing dinner. Nothing too heavy, we agreed on that, but still, we longed for adventurous food.
The twinkling lights surrounding the al fresco dining area of Chiriya’s Thai Cuisine beckoned. On a cooler night, we would have happily grabbed seats here to watch the zipping traffic and hustling commerce of busy Abercorn Street, Tonight, however, air-conditioning seemed a good idea.
Chiriya Moore owns this little Southside restaurant that flies under a banner of Thai cuisine but offers a large selection dishes inspired by her many years in Hawaii. Those were the years she gained her most restaurant experience, a world away from the rural town (“I’m just a country girl,” she says) she was raised in just north of Bangkok.
We met for a talk on the second anniversary of the restaurant, Sept. 11. I was embarrassed to have to ask her last name; after all, I had always just known the slightly built, smiling woman as Chiriya.
“It’s like Cher,” I said. “You really only need one name.”
She exploded with laughter, that’s something she does quickly. It’s what she says she likes best about the restaurant business:
“I love to see people being happy,” she explained. “And it makes me happy to look into the restaurant and see people laughing and enjoying themselves. I wake up every day excited to go to work.”
Most diners never see Chiriya. She does most of the cooking, assisted by her son Justin. The front man is Chiriya’s nephew Marshall Urstadt. “We have good chemistry together,” Chiriya says. They have their roles – Chiriya, 53, has hard knocks and kitchen skills to her credit; Marshall comes to the table with an MBA, a penchant for service and a passion for beer.
More on that later.
Some diners have been critical of Chiriya for lacking authenticity, for being too pricey for its small portions. Still, the little restaurant does a couple of turns at lunch and dinner and is a favorite gathering spot for small parties, soldiers and wives from Hunter Army Airfield and Southsiders bored with chain food and corporate themes. The former stay-at-home mom of 18 years calls this her new career and from all appearances, it’s working.
We we ushered into one of two plush corner banquettes and looked out over a restaurant that was nearly full – and did fill during our visit. We had dined here before, so tonight’s selections were easy.
For starters, we each chose spring rolls. Mine were filled with a mixture of clear noodles, pork, shrimp, mushrooms and carrots. They arrived piping hot, the crisp, fried wrappers had been cleanly cut on the bias to reveal the delicious filling. I hastily dunked on into spicy pineapple vinaigrette sauce and popped a bite into my mouth.
Thank goodness Marshall had delivered by German EKU Pilsner to quench the fire.
Ms. T.J.’s spring rolls were filled with vegetarian goodies like lettuce, carrots and mint leaves. Other than a difference filling, this dish presented as beautifully as its meat-filled cousin – and it was just as flavorful and satisfying.
My Pilsner was spent, so I called on Marshall to pair a beer for my next course, Pad Se-Ew, a fried, flat noodle dish in a sweet brown sauce. His choice at first seemed odd, but once I tasted the Kinmount Willie Oatmeal Stout, I remembered that I should never question his pairings.
You see, Chiriya is also Savannah’s most impressive destination for true beer aficionados. Marshall has a personal preference for Belgium beers, but has assemble a beer list that surpassed the restaurant’s wine list. It is, as you would imagine, heavy with Belgium beers, but also offers rotating selections of serious American craft beers from breweries like Left Hand, Dog Fish Head and Stone.
The restaurant conducts regular beer-paired dinners that have become a hot ticket. The normally reserved restaurant turns part hame show as Marshall conducts between dish sessions of beer trivia and doles out prizes like beer coasters, t-shirts and bar signs. Keep and eye on this young man – his passion for the brewer’s art and the experience he’s gaining with his aunt will one day combine to reward all of this city’s foodies and beer lovers.
The beer epitomized the point I’ve been trying to sell lately about high end beers. That is, stop thinking of these as beers that you’ll drink alone or guzzle down from a 12-ounce bottle. These are beers meant to be paired, intended to compliment food.
This stout would come up short on my radar as a stand alone stout. It’s fairly week, almost watery. But that characteristic was exactly what was need for the sweetness of my Pad Se-Ew. The chocolate and toasted malt of the beer shone through the flavors without stomping on the subtleties of the fried noodles.
The dish itself is reminiscent of Thai street food – a quickly assembled and rib-sticking meal built around wide rice noodles, garlic and soy sauce. Chiriya uses broccoli instead of Chinese broccoli – which is more a kale-like leafy vegetable. My protein portion came from seafood, a mixture of calamari, shrimp and scallops. It was tich and satisfying – which explains it being a staple comfort food among the Thai.
Miss T.J. Was in a round noodle mood and selected classic Pad Thai with chicken. Thin rice noodles get a quick stir fry with bean sprouts, eggs and green onions. A spritz of lemon juice brightened the flavors and added more complexity.
We each left food on the plate but did not go away hungry.
On a previous visit, we had enjoyed a popular appetizer of Crispy Noodles. This stunning mountain of fried vermicelli noodles soon dotted with mildly spiced and sweet sauces is as fun to eat and it is difficult to make. For a couple, or two couples, it’s a fun way to start the meal — poke and pull through the noodles, which are not nearly as filling as the sheer mass would indicate.
We also enjoyed the freshness of a trio of Crispy Shrimp that are lightly batter-fried and encrusted with the same noodles. These big, butter-flied portions are accompanied by tangy pineapple vinaigrette dipping sauce.
Chiriya really shines with its curry dishes, which are as flavorful as they are stunning to see. I favor the Yellow Curry with Chicken, the flavor of which is tinged by a Thai cooking staple, Kaffir lime leaves.
Many of the restaurant’s herbs are gown on planters on the front sidewalk; still others come from Chiriya’s home garden. At both lunch and dinner seatings the restaurant is decked out in black and white linens. Bold, red walls add warmth and enhance the coziness that prevails when night falls and twinkling candlelight fills the room.
Wine and beer is available for diners but is going to waste among Southsiders as an after work destination. I’d love to see more folks gathering for happy hour – or to sample Marshall’s beer menu. Service is always well-staffed and attentive. An extensive selection of vegetarian options is available.
Miss T.J. enjoyed her Thai tea with cream – an iced drink – one of several non-traditional beverages on the menu..
The menu lists spice levels and gives diners an option on most dishes – a welcome choice for folks whose palates don’t tolerate the fiery heat of some Thai cuisine.
Nestled on the fringe of Chatham Plaza Shopping Center, the restaurant has plenty of parking, easy access, an elegant dining room and a menu with seemingly endless variety.
The smiling woman peeking around the kitchen door is Chiriya. Wave, laugh and raise a glass in congratulations – she’s living her dream.

Chiriya’s Thai Cuisine
Hours: Monday-Friday, lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, lunch noon-2:30 p.m. dinner 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, dinner 5-10 p.m.
7805 Abercorn St. (Chatham Plaza)
303-0555
Reservations: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: Wine and beer
Dinner for two: $35-$70