By Pete Lamb

The Benihana restaurant chain might have popularized the teppanyaki, or hibachi, style of Japanese cooking in America, but it didn’t take long for imitators to spring up – and become nearly as ubiquitous as The Golden Arches.
Ms. Lamb and I had Sunday dinner at Savannah’s newest incarnation of this combination of culinary skill, bad comedy and hot and tasty food.
In a year that found many restaurant owners tightening their belts, I watched as Miyabi Japanese Steak House and Sushi Bar rose up from a plot on Eisenhower Drive. It is without doubt, the city’s largest teppanyaki steak house. The interior is beautifully designed, comfortable and lends itself to the kind of fun-loving atmosphere diners must adopt.
No, dear reader, this is not a quiet dinner for two. Family-style seating around the cooking surface creates forced intimacy that some might find uncomfortable. If so, plan on taking other friends to fill the table’s eight seats.
All entrees are accompanied by Japanese Onion Soup, which we found hot, savory and enjoyable. A crisp, fresh salad of lettuce and cucumbers also accompanies. I chose soy dressing, which I found refreshing with a hint of citrus. Ms. Lamb went with ginger dressing – but agreed my dressing was more interesting.
But wait, there’s more.
A few grilled shrimp dressed with teriyaki sauce and grilled veggies (zucchini and onion) present a pleasing hot appetizer course – a stage setter for the main course.
A huge mound of fried rice, shaped, as our server said, like “Sponge Bob No Pants,” was portioned out to each diner. The portions were massive. Ms. Lamb only accepted half and still left rice on her plate. We learned at meal’s end that the restaurant naturally assumes every diner will want a take-home container.
I chose Hibachi Scallops ($17.95) and received about 8 medium sized scallops that had been beautifully caramelized, then seasoned with more soy sauce. The sizzling saute on the grill top insured that each scallop was hot and perfectly cooked. I left one on my plate – I simply couldn’t eat another bite.
Ms. Lamb chose Rib-eye Steak and Shrimp ($13.95). The shrimp were prepared as the appetizer course had been and the 5-oz. rib-eye steak was trimmed and quick-grilled to her preferred temperature of medium rare. Again, seasoning of soy added flavor; the steak was tender and juicy, the shrimp firm and fresh.
Our only disappointment was the Sushi Appetizer ($6.50). The four portions of California roll were poorly constructed and fell apart. Wasabi mayonnaise was a far too prevalent flavor. Three pieces of nigiri-style (with white fish, salmon and shrimp) also suffered from poor creation. The fish portions were too large and far too tough to bite through. Even the butterflied shrimp was impossible to bite – and the rolls were too big to put in my mouth at once. The sticky rice came apart – and I was left holding large, raw portions of fish that I couldn’t bite.
Still, the lively atmosphere, hot and hearty grilled dishes and wild floor show, make Miyabi a good destination for something different – or a group party.

Reviewers do not notify restaurants in advance of their visits. The Savannah Morning News pays for all meals.

Three Stars out of Four
Pete Lamb’s scoring of one to four stars indicates his impression of food, service, ambiance and value.

Miyabi Japanese Steak House and Sushi Bar
Hours: 4:30-10 p. m. Monday-Thursday, 4:30-10:30 p. m. Friday, 4-10:30 p. m. Saturday, 12:30-2 p. m. and 4-9 p. m. Sunday.
Address: 200 Eisenhower Drive
Telephone: 352-7300
Reservations: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: Beer and wine
Dinner for two without alcohol: $25-$40