By Tim A. Rutherford

To select and highlight a single Savannah restaurant in this annual “Best Of” issue is like asking a mother to name her favorite child.

The city’s restaurants, the men and women who mange them and cook the food and wait the tables are as uniquely distinct as siblings. Some have individual strengths, others are immensely talented in all areas. Regardless, all of the good ones – like well-behaved children – have commendable traits.

So, for this “Best Of” issue, Savannah Magazine Art Director Michelle Karner and I embarked on a progressive dinner that showcased a handful of the city’s finest restaurants and their chefs. Instead of moving from one home to another – as is the usual practice – we moved from restaurant to restaurant – and Michelle and I would like you top join us, at least in words – for our movable feast.

The Friday night we chose in July was seasonably hot and I had been apprehensive about finding nearby parking at our first two downtown stops. Then, while sitting in traffic one day, inspiration struck:

Hire a Pedi-Cab.

Coordinating the pick-ups was easy – and something I discovered the Pedi-Cab crew does on a regular basis. We parked our vehicle at Cha Bella – our second stop – and took a Pedi-Cab to our first stop.

The late afternoon sun was warm, but our driver skirted through squares canopied with oaks to make our ride cooler. Still, the idea of a nice cool martini at Saya Lounge had me anxious for the ride to end.

Friends Gretchen, Paul and Marcia met us at Saya and were admittedly as taken with the stunning interior as I had been on an earlier visit. The lounge is an urban oasis unlike anything else on the Broughton Street strip.

It’s cool, with great lighting and lots of reds, blacks and metallic surfaces. Cozy nooks and luxurious banquettes are inviting. The basement level lounge is windowless, which adds to its mysteriousness.

I went old school, a Jame’s Bond-style martini with a pair of plump olives. The martini is Saya’s specialty, and Michelle chose a Lychee Martini, which is fruity – but possesses enough savory flavors to not be cloying. Our friends sampled from the wine and beer menus – Saya also offers a full bar of premium spirits.

It was quiet, just how I wanted to start this evening of feasting. In later hours, a DJ ramps up the energy and Saya becomes a Mecca of 80’s dance music.

I had allowed 45 minutes to an hour for each of our stops – and restaurateurs had been very willing to accommodate my approximate reservations after I told them of my plan. With one eye on the time and the other on the lone olive languishing in my glass, I placed another pick-up call to Pedi-Cab.

A few minutes later, Jovencio Mercado, owner of Saya, passed by our corner table to tell me our ride was waiting upstairs.

Emerging onto the sidewalk we found the sun lower in the sky and a nice, warm breeze to our backs as we headed due east on Broughton Street. It was a great way to chat about our first stop – and get a first-hand look at the changing face of downtown.

In no time, we were standing at the hostess stand of Cha Bella – and anxious to sample our first course of the night.

I had been talking with Michelle about Owner and Chef Mathew Roher’s penchant for sourcing an amazing garden basket of organic produce. As if on cue, a beautiful plate showcasing those skills – and that lovely produce – appeared at our table.

A salad of sorrel and peeled Sun Gold tomatoes splashed with sherry tomato vinaigrette was a perfect palate refresher. Artisan Feta cheese from Swainsboro, Georgia, Flat Creek Dairy added creaminess and tempura battered blossoms – squash I believe – brought a spot of bright color and crispy texture.

We also sampled a seafood appetizer featuring sautéed local shrimp – big, sweet morsels – and large, white chunks of butter poached King Crab. This mini-dish of seafood teased with a few bites of sautéed collard greens and Parmesan grits. A Provencal sauce of tarragon added an herbaceous and fresh taste to the shrimp.

I had anticipated sampling the braised Kobe beef short ribs – and this dish proved worth the wait. Crisp haricot vert and tomato coulis added a palette of green and red to the beef, which was served in a pool of its own rich braising liquid. The gnocchi were a surprise to us both – they were made from potato. Savannah is not typically a gnocchi town – but potato gnocchi in this city are as rare as hen’s teeth.

Many Savannah diners don’t realize that Cha Bella is under new ownership. It’s had a face lift to create a warmer feel and the menu reflects an emerging benchmark of cuisine for this city. Roher has raised the bar with his expectations for staff – and for the food coming from Cha Bella’s kitchen.

He has the chops.

As former general manager and executive chef for luxurious Hampton Island Reserve, Roher brings world-class skills to the table. His efforts to help breathe new life into Trustees’ Garden with a farmer’s market – and his advocacy for organic farming – have already shown he has a commitment to the community and its diners.

Next stop – the main course at one of Savannah’s perennial fine dining destinations – Elizabeth on 37th.

The sidewalk leading through aromatic herbs and flowers leading to the grand mansion that is Elizabeth on 37th is always a little humbling – but also foretells a bit about the experience that waits behind the big,wooden door. Among all Savannah restaurants, this one always tops my short list of the best. Chef Kelley Yambor commands the kitchen with passion and creativity. Owners Greg and Gary Butch wait tables along with talented young men and women – all of whom have infinite knowledge of the restaurant’s impressive wine cellar. For food, service and wine – Elizabeth is the gold standard in Savannah.

We began with the restaurants now legendary baby greens and fresh herb salad. A couple of glasses of wine, this salad and homemade biscuits is a comforting and flavorful starter. Minimal dressing allows the fresh herbs to shine. It’s always a challenge to identify the ingredients while sipping a cool, white wine.

But don’t dilly-dally! Our main course arrived promptly and I was envious of Michelle’s Gullah-fried rice topped with three of the largest scallops I’ve ever seen.

Bacon bits and a fine dice of fresh vegetables added flavor and texture to the wonderfully seasoned rice. The scallops had been pan-seared separately – and each was carefully caramelized while preserving the sweet, moist interior meat. A tangy sauce of sour cream, dill and cucumber added another layer of flavor to the scallops. This send up of Southern regional ingredients is exactly the kind of food Elizabeth on 37th has used to stake its claim on many “Best” lists.

Regular readers of this column will know that I don’t usually order fish, but a special this night sounded too good to ignore. Again, the dish utilized fresh herbs – and any herb dish from this restaurant will be a winner.

Finely chopped mint, basil and tarragon had been used to encrust a large filet of snapper. The fish was moist, hot and naturally mild. The herbs added a pleasing trio of aromas and tastes. A bed of small butter beans lent Southern authenticity to the dish – and count among my favorite comfort foods.

Greg’s wine selections with this course were spot on as usual. We took a few moments to relax – and take in the dining room form our comfortable corner banquette. Duty called, we settled the check, bade farewell and headed crosstown for dessert.

The Midtown location of Kasey’s Gourmet Grille was just moments away. Manager Cort Bello and Owner Daniel Berman were waiting for us with what became an even more impressive dessert course than I had imagined.

Miss T.J. and our friend Guin made a appearance for dessert – you know Miss T.J. is never far away from chocolaty desserts.

Chocolate turned out to be just a small part of what the Kasey’s crew had in mind.

We were each served mini portions of the restaurant’s core desserts – chocolate-raspberry flourless torte, sourdough bread pudding and Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake. Each is more decadent than the other – regardless of the order in which they are eaten!

Aperitif glasses of tawny Port and Sauternes were perfect compliments.

We each had our favorites – mine is the torte. Dark chocolate makes its presence known with each mouthful – but then sweet raspberry begins to co-mingle and trigger a different range of taste buds. It’s a dessert that is perfectly paired with a great coffee or an after dinner cordial.

We shared a pair of sorbets – one a silvery champagne treat, the other brimming with fresh blueberries. Chocolate dipped strawberries added tartness and more chocolate goodness to this course.

Kasey’s is my neighborhood restaurant of choice. Daniel and his team have taken this young eatery to new heights with each passing year and the continually growing loyalists know they can depend on Kasey’s for quality ingredients and remarkable service. The menu sees subtle seasonal changes and nightly specials are a pedestal on which talented Chef Nelson DeJesus highlights fresh ingredients – as well as his imagination.

Our new twist on an old idea was a great way to get a sense of the culinary diversity of Savannah – and was a fun way to take in a variety of different atmospheres in one evening. Along the way, we saw several friends, met new ones and discovered first-hand the best of the Hostess City.

Conduct your own progressive dinner

With a little planning and some advance phone work, you can experience a progressive dinner like Michelle and I. Here are some tips.

Keep the party small. Two to four people is plenty. Any larger group and service times become unwieldy.

Allow about an hour at each location, plus some travel time. We didn’t languish much but a small group of friends may easily become distracted.

Make a reservation at each restaurant. Explain what you are doing and ask if a half hour window is acceptable. Some Savannah restaurants are very accommodating about reservation times, others aren’t.

To expedite the process, ask the restaurant if they can prepare a prix fixe menu. That leaves dishes somewhat of a surprise, but adds to the fun and cuts down on time spent reading menus.

It would be very easy to do a progressive dinner on foot downtown. Stake out your favorite restaurants and walk from site-to-site one weekend to judge whether this will be doable by a small group – and women in heels.

If you plan on consuming wine or alcohol at each location, consider having one member be your designated driver.

Don’t plan on rushing. It’s easy to get off track. Have fun, allow plenty of time – and come hungry!