By Pete Lamb

To loyal fans of Alligator Soul the restaurant is as main stream as any Savannah fine dining destination.
To those unfamiliar with the basement level eatery, it’s mysterious, off the beaten path and, too often, overlooked.
But for those fortunate to have followed the smells of cooking food and sounds of music down the stairs beneath the Telfair Square Post Office, Alligator Soul has become a cozy respite, a place to unwind or to celebrate. It’s menu is decidedly masculine, but presented with such elegance that it’s a a favorite evening out for many women I know – foodies who appreciate wild game, fois gras and the manly art of grilling.
Chef Chris Dinello is the talent in the kitchen, hand-picked by the restaurant’s late founder and chef, Hilary Craig. He has stepped into the big shoes left by Hilbo, as he was known to his friends, and preserved the founder’s vision – while giving dishes his own touch.
The fire place was crackling when we arrived and light jazz music filled the air. Owner Maureen Craig moved from table to table, checking on guests’ comfort, explaining a dish here and there and happily hugging returning guests who have become more like family than customers.
Ms. Lamb began with Borscht ($12), Chef Chris style. Diced beets played second fiddle in the flavor department as house made sausage and saut