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Special occasion Pink House yields to the business lunch

Monday, March 2, 2009 @ 3:20 pm No Comments Yet

Generations of Savannahians count on the venerable Olde Pink House to host those special occasions that call for Southern charm, predictable cuisine and a nostalgic setting.
But the new bar space overlooking East St. Julina Street is becoming a hotspot for downtown business lunches or an off-the-beaten-path noon-time rendezvous.
The menu is packed with trend setters, like mini hamburgers, and go-to regional dishes like shrimp and grits or a salad topped with plump Georgia shrimp. On past visits, I’ve enjoyed the Cob salad and Caesar salad topped with grilled chicken.
On a recent visit with my friend Michael, we pored over the menu, but then became taken with a couple of daily lunch specials. As the meal evolved, it became apparent we had headed down a flavor path ranging from sweet to savory, spicy to salty – with only a couple of tongue-tripping obstacles.
We sampled the novelty appetizer Southern Sushi ($7.95), which you should already know is Southern fried. And despite the overplayed comparison to REAL sushi, this dish was a nice little bite that was packed with flavor. Smoked shrimp and grits are tightly rolled in coconut crusted nori which creates a delicious bundle of sweet and savory, crunchy and creamy – and a gentle flavor of smoke.
Carrying on the whole Asia theme, Michael selected the lunch special of Shrimp Wonton ($14.95). Again, a combination of Southern staple get combined with Asia flavors and textures to create a satisfying appetizer.
Three large shrimp were tightly wrapped in a won ton wrapper, which was also stuffed with Italian sausage and crab meat. The crackling fried wrapper was drizzled with honey Dijon mustard glaze – adding one more component of sweet and spicy.
The shrimp and crab were tender, moist sweet spots in each mouthful. Fennel from the Italian sausage brought an additionally tantalizing flavor to the dish. A side of sweet potato French fries were alternately sweet and salty – and the perfect foil for the hearty flavors of the shrimp.
My Grilled Barbecue Mahi ($14.95 takes its inspiration from Southern pork dishes that are classically paired with collard greens and grits.
The Mahi was a right-sized portion that presented with a hint of crispiness but retained moistness and tenderness on the inside. A cloak of sweet barbecue sauce and pineapple chutney added tang and sweetness. Overall, the Mahi component of this dish stood and delivered in its presentation and palate pleasing characteristics.
Sadly, the flavorless grits were near gelatinous; the collards needed some seasoning.
Giant popovers with sweet butter help ease diners into their midday meal – and are as addictive as yo might think.
When moderate temperatures return, you’ll find the huge, arch-topped doors open between the bar and the St. Julian Street sidewalk. The additions to the original 1771 pink stucco house may be contemporary, but retain the warmth of the main structure. Of course, the original Planter’s Tavern bar is still filled with ambiance and allure. It’s modern, street level sister is bright and inviting, a bridge between the past and the present.
The Olde Pink House will never abandon its Lowcountry legacy, but this new addition begs for a visit. It’s cozy, inviting and has a menu that caters to casual diners, as well as those seeking a more elegant luncheon.

Reviewers do not notify restaurants in advance of their visits. The Savannah Morning News pays for all meals.

3 Stars out of 4
Pete Lamb’s scoring of one to four stars indicates his impression of food, service, ambiance and value. E-mail Pete at pete.lamb@comcast.net

The Olde Pink House
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday-Monday 5-10:30 p.m.
Address: 23 Abercorn St
Telephone: 232-4286
Reservations: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: Yes
Lunch for two without alcohol: $28-$50

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