By Pete Lamb

To borrow from Monty Python:
“Now for something completely different.”
I have something of a reputation as a carnivore in insatiable pursuit of all things meaty: smoked pork, rare steak, seared foie gras, fried chicken and falling off the bone, savory, more-delicious-than-deserved braised lamb shank.
But this week, dear reader, I want to talk to you about salads.
I fell off the wagon, the meat wagon, for a couple of days, kinda, and experienced a mixed green epiphany. Yes, there was still meatiness involved (chicken and seafood) but the darned greens and veggie portions were so overwhelmingly delicious, I must comment.
First, lets visit the garden salad with chicken from Cafe 37. It didn’t hurt that I was there to taste some elegant wines from South Australia’s Torbreck Vineyards. Then owner and chef Blake Elsinghorst delivered a salad that was a masterpiece.
With a bed of mixed greens, dried cherries and candied pistachios, the salad’s construction insures a delicious bite of goodness with every forkful.
Two crostini topped with baked goat cheese perch atop the greens, ready to deliver nice acidity that complements a sweet, gentle dressing of honey and white truffle vinaigrette.
I pointed out to my companions that Chef Blake must have made this salad over and over, eyeballing it each time to make sure it looked as perfect as it tastes.
Plump cubes of marinated chicken breast added some weight, but I learned that I would find this salad a complete and delicious lunch – even without the meat.
I’ve been a longtime fan of Ruth’s Chris Chop Salad – a wonderment of construction that arrives a tightly packed tower of greens and other goodies. The first forkful releases its pent up energy and the salad spreads across your plate.
This dish is a Ruth’s Chris original: julienne iceberg lettuce, spinach and radicchio tossed with sliced red onions and mushrooms, chopped green olives, bacon, eggs, hearts of palm, croutons, Bleu cheese and lemon basil dressing – served with cherry tomatoes and topped with crispy fried onions.
The freshness and complexity make it plenty satisfying as a meal when paired with an appropriate glass of wine.
Do keep a lookout for a special salad that crops up from time to time at Ruth’s Chris.
The Lobster and Shellfish Salad is a showroom of fresh greens and seafood.
Jumbo Gulf shrimp, A whole Maine lobster claw and lump crab are tossed with mixed greens, tomatoes and died peppers – then dressed with a vibrant lemon and olive oil dressing.
Again, this is a special, but one worth asking about on your next visit to the steak house.

For all salads in this review: 4 stars.

Pete Lamb’s scoring of one to four stars indicates his impression of food, service, ambiance and value.

Cafe 37
Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. Dinner, Thursday-Saturday, beginning at 5:30 p.m.
Address: 205 E 37th St
Telephone: 236-8533
Reservations: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: Beer and wine
Dinner for two without alcohol: $25-$40

Ruth’s Chris
Hours: Monday-Thursday 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 4-9 p.m.
Address: 111 W. Bay St.
Telephone: 721-4800
Reservations: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: Yes
Dinner for two without alcohol: $100-$150