Noble Fare
Posted in Pete's Dining Reviews | May 4, 2008 – 3:48 pmBy Pete Lamb
With just a few months of business to its history, Noble Fare feels as comfortable and inviting as your favorite denim shirt.
Ms. Lamb and I slipped in for dinner on a perfect a winter night - reasonable temperatures, the rain ended - with expectations for a wonderful evening.
We were not disappointed.
Chef Pat McNamara is not quite 40 but he’s put the years after his culinary degree to good use. His experience means that he instinctively knows what works and what does not. His wife, Jenny, runs the front of the house with confidence and grace. The 32-seater won’t make them rich, but it will sure serve as a beautiful tableau for their dreams.
McNamara is a veteran of the big eateries and private clubs where massive amounts of food get pushed over the pass. With Noble Fare, he gets to cook and bake - and carry out the trash. It’s a young chef’s fantasy come true.
Ms. Lamb and I had our gastronomic fantasies satisfied with dinner.
Before our first course arrived, an amuse-bouche of prosciutto-wrapped scallop-parmesan mousse teased our appetites. Salty, savory, sweet - it was a perfect jump-start for our taste buds.
My Crispy Sweetbreads ($12) was an awesome portion, sautéed crisp but still tender and moist inside, and served over haricot vert and a deliciously earthy handful of chanterelle mushrooms. A drizzle of black truffle vinaigrette married together tanginess with the dish’s organic flavors.
Love and Rocket ($9) is the tongue-in-cheek name given to Ms. Lamb’s salad, which pays homage to the British name for arugula - rocket –and the cultist black-and-white comic book by a similar name.
But this salad is anything but black and white.
Fresh, peppery baby arugula served as a fitting foundation for mildly salty Nicoise olives, feta cheese and lightly licorice flavored bits of shaved fennel. A splash of 25-year-old sherry vinaigrette was the only dressing this flavorful salad required.
An intermezzo of lemon sorbet cleansed our palates for the main course.
Ms. Lamb’s Sapelo Island Grouper ($29) showcased locally caught fish and a piping hot, naturally sweet stuffing of Port Royal Blue Crab. Beurre blanc provided a decadent sauce in which the fish, crab and accompanying smashed beets and sautéed spinach could find common ground.
I was thrilled to find venison on the menu and immediately settled on the Lavender-rubbed Venison Tenderloin ($36) served with acorn squash, potato pavé and a reduction of fig molasses and pinotage.
The tenderloin was served medium rare in bits that yielded a couple of bites each. The rub was sweet and floral without being overpowering; the venison was tender and earthy. The “paving stone” of layered potatoes was browned and satisfying. The mild dollop of acorn squash - a vegetable that is too often overlooked, was another naturally sweet addition to our meal - and a testament to McNamara’s food knowledge. The reduction did its job - it complemented but did not distract from the dishes already full palette of flavors.
Ms. Lamb’s portion of Bryan’s Chocolate Love Cake ($8) was a classic interpretation of the syrupy-center lava cake, this time served with custard ice cream and raspberries. Our pair of French-pressed coffees gave me an added jolt of caffeine - I chose the Espresso Crème Brule ($5), served with mocha whipped cream and chocolate espresso beans.
I was surprised and delighted to see the restaurant do almost a complete “turn” of tables while we were there. With no advance marketing and only word-of-mouth, Noble Fare has already become a hot ticket for downtown diners. A small and inviting bar offers a full range of cocktails, as well as a thorough wine list and an impressive selection of import and craft beers.
Servers were attentive, amiable and very knowledgeable about the menu. Definitely call for reservations. Parking is available on-street within a couple of blocks or at the Montgomery and Liberty streets garage next door.
It is rare to find a new restaurant that covers all of its bases so well, so early. The atmosphere that has been created by Chef Pat and Jenny, the elegant menu and a devotion to exemplary customer service are already among the best in the city - and will only grow stronger as this newcomer becomes a welcome mainstay.
The reviewer uses a pseudonym to remain anonymous. Reviewers do not notify restaurants in advance of their visits. The newspaper pays for all meals.
Ambience: A+
Service: A+
Food: A+
What: Noble Fare
Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.
Address: 321 Jefferson St. (Corner of Harris and Jefferson streets)
Telephone: 443-3210
Reservations: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Bar: Yes
Dinner for two, without alcohol: $85-$110
5 Responses to “Noble Fare”
My son, a student at SCAD, a lover of very fine food,and a resident on Jefferson street, and I dined at Noble Fare recently. The atmosphere was cozy, the service was better than just good, but the food was a disappointment. Maybe for Savannah it was OK, but we expected something outstanding. The restaurant had a fishy smell which meant that someone was enjoying “not so fresh” seafood. Anyway, I guess it was OK for Savannah; however, my son said he would rather just dine at “mom’s” house. Any tips on where we and he can dine in the Savannah area? We visit with him at least once a week and enjoy dining outnand he dines out himself at least twice per week. He loves Japanese food! Thanks for your suggestions.
By ALYCE WALSH on May 13, 2008
Sorry you had a bad experience Alyce….it happens — even at good restaurants.
You’re lucky your son likes mom’s cooking — that’s rare these days
If by Japanese, you mean sushi and better grade Japanese cuisine — and not hibachi steak joints — I can’t say enough good things about Sushi Zen — particularly the location on Waters Avenue. In fact, I had carry out from there tonight.
Thanks for posting!
By tim on May 13, 2008
I can second that. Sushi Zen hits the spot for my girlfriend and me every time. Excellent atmosphere, excellent food, great service.
By Chris McCorkle on May 14, 2008